The Wedding Party (3 O’Clock Roadblock)

Over the weekend, I went to my first wedding here; it was the marriage of the son of a professor. Weddings here are elaborate affairs and can easily have more than 500 guests. This one was a bit smaller (perhaps 250-300), and quite nice with lots of food, drink, music, and dance. I did not find it much different from weddings I have attended in the US, other than an opening dance during which guests shower the couple with money and a formal presentation of elaborately wrapped gifts (which serves as a receiving line). And perhaps the length--they usually run all night into the morning. I suspect this one was no exception though we left relatively early, around 2:30 am. If transport (which is starting to dominate this blog) is not one of the reasons for all-night weddings, then it is certainly one of its benefits. There aren’t taxis or taxi-buses running after 10pm, and those people who have cars have to deal with police roadblocks and checkpoints. So people stay, may take a nap, wake up at 5am, and dance some more.

Anticipating the roadblocks, we asked some people familiar with the area (Binza) for a suggested route before departing. Following their instructions, we only passed through two police checkpoints (we may have hit more if not for the advice; I have heard of people facing six on a single road). At the first, in the area of Victoire (which is in Matonge, the hot area in the cité with clubs), the officers said they were searching for guns being smuggled in from Matadi (to the west). They wanted to check the trunk, which the driver opened. After he was satisfied that we had none, he asked if he get something to buy himself a drink. A colleague, who wisely always introduces himself as “Professeur” which carries a good bit of weight and respect here, said in Lingala, which he later translated for me, “Not today, maybe tomorrow.” The solider said ok. He waved, and we were on our way. The next roadblock was even more simple, thanks to “Professuer,” who knows how to handle these situations pretty smoothly. It requires a balance of calm, friendliness, and assertiveness, which he is able to manage quite deftly.