The King and I

On Friday evening, I had a Fanta with a King, Nyi Mi Lukengu, King of the Bakuba!!! He has been King since 1969, when he was in his 30s. I guess that he is in his late 60s, and looks about ten years younger despite his grey hair. I have seen pictures of him in royal costume in which he is covered with intricately beaded clothing, cowries, and feathers. On Friday, the only accoutrement that was to me identifiably royal was a small skull cap in the shape of the number eight or the infinite symbol, made of leopard skin that lay loosely on top of his head, like an asymmetrical Jewish yarmulke.

He was wearing a business suit because he is a member of Parliament, which also explains why he spends a lot of time in Kinshasa. The Bakuba kingdom is SE of here in Kasai Occidental. When I arrived he was meeting with two other Senators, who left soon after introducing themselves to me. He offered me a drink, and I took a Fanta. Then I gave him a book--the catalog from the Gee’s Bend, Alabama, quilting exhibition that has been touring the US for the past few years. I chose this book because quilting, especially the work of the women of this particular community, is one of the American art forms that some people have traced to Kuba textiles. (As I write this, I realize that some images on the blog would be helpful.) He was grateful and interested.

By beginning with the art book, this started our conversation on the topic of art. He brought a couple of textiles, amazing pieces of work, and some books to show me. We discussed the art, and he expressed as his priority the need to create opportunities for the artists to be able to profit from their craft which appears in museums across the US and throughout the world. This did not surprise me. I appreciate the essential need for the artists themselves to begin to earn some money because, not only is it above all just, but to a large extent the continuation of this great artistic practice depends on it. Personally I feel quite inadequate for the task. I am a teacher. I can explain to people why this work is important and valuable, but I don’t have the faintest idea how to market it in the US. (If anyone does, let me know.)

Our conversation continued for about an hour and a half. I asked some more questions, including whether or not William Sheppard, an American missionary who was in the Congo in the 1890s and founded the Presbyterian Church here, fathered any children here. He was aware of the same rumors that I was, told me that he investigated it a bit, and believes it is very unlikely. It is possible that Sheppard had a child in another community, not among the Bakuba. Indeed he was unable to establish a mission station there, which was another topic we discussed. We also discussed some of the universities in the region, since I am hoping to get some more contacts to make a visit to the area.

It was a good conversation. He asked some questions about the US. He has traveled there, including to Hampton University in Virginia, where Sheppard was a student in the 1880s and which has many of his papers and the largest collection of Bakuba art in the US. His youngest brother went to school at Hampton in the early 1990s and now lives in North Carolina. He asked me some questions about Miami and the US; he was interested to know if there was a large African community there. He has a son who is interested in attending college in the US, and we discussed that briefly as well.

The television was on during the whole conversation, providing some ambient noise. (This is not unusual here.) Towards the end of the conversation, the King pointed to the tv screen and said “Votre président.” I looked and saw George W on the screen and fumblingly acknowledged, “Mais…[do I explain that I didn’t vote for him]…mais…[do I say, I don’t know anyone who voted for him]…mais… [can’t I disown him, I ask myself]…mais… [Long Pause.] Oui. [Sigh] Il est ma président.”